The best style on earth doesn’t technically reside on land. The massive blue abyss spanning the globe demands its visitors dress in an extremely specific manner tethered to the liquid environment. A 700 fill down jacket, wide wale corduroys, and Jordan 11s would prove a massive disadvantage for anyone facing the high seas. Naturally, the strict dress code created adventurers who unintentionally exemplified sartorial prowess. There’s definitely different categories of sea explorers, ranging from Land Rover-driving yacht club members to thousands of Navy members scrambling aboard an obscenely large vessel, regardless water spawns innate style from necessity and tradition. Ocean voyages always disseminate a feeling related to the elusive sense of luxury and adventure that never transfers to reality. Jacques Cousteau and sea exploration remain a synonymous pairing 22 years after his death. His adventures, mechanical creations, films, and conservation efforts continue to cement him as a legendary figure. Similar to Abraham Lincoln, Cousteau personifies a certain hat style, and the red knit beanie is inseparable from his crew and their adventures aboard Calypso. Wes Anderson’s “The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou” definitely brought his signature hat and accompanying blue ensemble into the spotlight again, but the look shouldn’t be confined to the 2004 film. (Props to Adidas for actually manufacturing the Team Zissou shoe.) Cousteau and his marine counterparts’ pristine style blends heritage and functionality with personality. The red hat stems from British Navy divers, but Cousteau’s popularity introduced the item to a much broader audience, largely unaware of its deep-sea origins. Although the cap is clearly the signature piece, his blue uniform remains magnificent. I don’t know the exact color to describe his chambray shirt and turtleneck, but it’s perfect. A vessel filled with divers, operators, captains and researchers may not seem like the prototypical space to explore personal style preferences, but I doubt his wardrobe carried notable importance for him. A deep-sea adventurer sprinting across the deck in coordinated ensemble seems designed for a Wes Anderson story. Cousteau’s technical savvy extends beyond oceanic research and his contributions to device like the Aqua-Lung, which transformed diving from a military and commercial endeavor to one enjoyed for personal use. His interest in highly functional mechanics extends to personal accessories. The red hat is no technological marvel, but upon meaningful inspection countless photographs capture the wonderful timepieces through his career. His Rolex Submariner and the DOXA SUB 300 were common choices. In this context, tool is much more appropriate than describing these items as jewelry. Cousteau and his Rolex may appear on a million mood boards, but seeing such a historic item used for its intended function in extreme environments reiterates Cousteau’s unknowing coolness-he’s like an elderly, ocean-obsessed James Dean. The watch stayed on his wrist as he floated through coral reefs documenting a world people never saw in clear definition. That’s far more interesting than a Sky-Dweller dangling off someone’s wrist at a Vegas pool party. However, other members aboard Calypso retained immense personal style at sea. Albert Falco, Cousteau’s chief diver, hailed from France and spent his career exploring aquatic ecosystems. Besides their shared interest in the underwater world, Falco also adopted signature pieces. Falco typically opted for a Breton shirt and navy smock, both inherently French and riddled with tradition. A French Navy decree from 1858 stated the striped shirt as an official uniform requirement for sailors, and its been reinterpreted by a plethora of designers including Coco Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier. Another sailing maverick with legendary outfits is Bernard Moitessier. Moitessier was a French national whose wardrobe-or lack of-echoes his sailing style and attitude. He’s often shown shirtless with no footwear, and the only coverage coming from a pair of faded red shorts. Although his lack of clothing may seem questionable, the sparse choice is rooted in function and performance. Vibrant shorts and no top make logical sense when sailing through the tropics. Why would anyone choose to be hunkered down by useless zippers and buttons during a battle with a sudden wind shift? Moitessier’s personality and outlooks seem obvious when judging his bare-chested appearance-only the necessities. The man potentially earned the fastest circumnavigation during the 1968 Sunday Times Golden Globe Race but refused to end the event at the appropriate location to reject the ongoing commercialization of performance sailing. Moitessier inevitably turned down endorsement deals and worldwide acclaim. The man in the tiny shorts made his point clear, he just wanted to sail. Although far away from the Parisian Haute Couture runways, women found a way to showcase interesting ensembles while using a boat deck as a catwalk. Naomi James was a phenomenal sailor and accomplished astonishing feats during the 1970s, but retired from serious sailing endeavors after her husband died. She wrote several books detailing her experiences and historic career. Her 1979 book, “At One with the Sea,” exemplifies her unbeknownst sartorial expertise. The 29-year-old New Zealander strikes a statuesque pose in yellow bib overalls while peering off into the water. Opting for more technically advanced options than Moitessier, James displayed style sided by textile innovations. (But, the Lady Kritter sweater is just too good.) Despite James' accomplishment and excellent book cover, the best sailing gear in history belongs to Krystyna Chojnowska-Liskiewicz. The polish athlete was the first women in history to circumnavigate the globe by herself. Her red Henry Lloyd suit proudly displayed The White Eagle, Poland’s national coat of arms and a matching hat. Mazurek, the 32-foot long sloop she traveled on, proudly decorates the garment along with slant pockets across the chest and legs. The outfit outshines any sports jersey, military uniform or spacesuit. Jordan's jersey doesn't come close. Semi-aquatic fashion responds to nothing but function and any accompanying technicalities derive from necessity. Moitessier didn’t need any garment besides his shorts for the majority of his voyages, so that’s all he wore. Prada and Louis Vuitton’s involvement in the America’s Cup resulted in amazing pieces in the early to mid-2000s, but some of the inherent coolness evaporates when unnecessary luxury branding appears. It’s cool to see the logos in such a foreign arena, and Prada utilized textile improvements in their renditions, but it still seems invasive. The natural world couldn’t evade high-profile branding efforts.
The ‘70s spawned legendary style choices, and the revered fashion sense seeped into the oceans. Although no sailors wore platform heels and fringe jackets while racing across the Pacific, their wardrobe decisions blended personal taste and function during a very interesting era. A red Henri Lloyd suit, tiny shorts, and yellow bib overalls wouldn’t logically transfer to any landlocked areas-the coolest outfits on Earth never make it to land.
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AuthorMax Theriot Archives
November 2019
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