Since mankind spread across the planet, regional differences demanded varying garment types. A Native American hunting buffalo didn’t require the thick fur mantles favored by Nordic clans and African tribes found minimal clothing produced the most benefit in a sun-drenched climate. Despite the distinct variations present for generations, “western wear”, not 10-gallon hats and cowboy boots, infected the earth with Levi’s and sneakers available for purchase on every continent. But long before Saucony partnered with Dunkin' Donuts, footwear fulfilled the vital role of protecting wearers from environmental dangers. When traveling thousands of miles in freezing conditions, deerskins moccasins make the journey slightly more bearable. Besides the obvious technological leaps made since primitive leather shoes, access to a plethora of footwear options has completely altered longstanding norms. Regional limitations continue to decrease as communities gain access to the same products. Italians may love the Air Max 97, but it’s currently available at every mall across the United States, and nothing prohibits a Swedish girl from purchasing a pair of New York’s beloved Air Force 1. For a bevy of reasons beyond sneaker blogs, tastes are constantly intermixing and migrating to lands far away from their alleged origins. But, Asian countries still operate with some sense of individualism when purchasing footwear, with Japan standing out, of course. The country is inseparably linked to legendary collectors, revered brands, regional exclusives and an incomparable taste level that everyone seems to acknowledge as top tier. Japanese fans undoubtedly purchase styles popular in other nations, as Air Max and Boost leave no person untouched. However, their affinity for laceless models always intrigued me. Their stylistic choice are usually respected, but not always replicated, and the love for shoes without laces exemplifies the notion. I’ve always had an affinity for Air Wovens and Instapumps, but very rarely do I see similar models in the United States, and every other country fails in comparison to Japan. When searching for images on Instagram or other online sources, those living on the relatively small island nation dominate the results. Although it may seem trivial or coincidental, the interest stems beyond digital outfit pictures. When thinking of “traditional” Japanese dress, I feel most people reference silk kimonos followed by sandals with tabi socks. Geta, the elevated wooden platform sandals, prevented kimonos from dragging on the ground, and the split-toe design extends across several different traditional models with no laces. Margiela's Tabi Boot definitely brought the form an immense amount of worldwide attention since its 1988 debut, but Nike's own interpretation found success in the tabi's homeland. Nike released the Air Rift, a split-toe sneaker modeled after barefoot Kenyan runners, in 1996. Although the shoe stems from an Africa, Japanese enthusiasts fully embraced the seemingly modern take on tabi. The highly influential, moodboard-appropriate Harajuku scene in the early 2000s consistently featured stylish fans decked out in era-appropriate outfits finished with the unmistakable sneaker. It’s not a shocking revelation, but it’s extremely interesting how the culture wholeheartedly adopted a modern rendition of a style introduced centuries ago. Iridescent mesh and swoosh branding were lacking from historical pairs, but the dominant feature remained untouched. Hypebeast briefly explored Japan’s fondness for laceless options with a 2016 article examining the Instapump’s success in Asian markets. Steven Smith's design bears no resemblance to any traditional model and seems better suited for a universe-hopping astronaut. Nevertheless, the community fostered a deep attachment to the model after Jackie Chan lent his name to a neon green and grey rendition. (A pair released in 1997 commemorating China gaining sovereignty over Hong Kong from Great Britain – which I guess is a respectable move by a British brand.) I’m not 100 percent sure if Jackie Chan’s name is still important enough to credit all sales to him, but modern stars like South Korean actor Kim Soo-hyun wear the model and are extremely influential style sources throughout Asia. In conjunction with popular Asian brands like Beams, Bape, Atmos, X-Girl and Gundam , the shoe reached heights unmatched by other countries. (The Instapump looks incredibly like a mech’s foot) And if any further validation for the shoe’s importance is needed, Hiroshi Fujiwara says it’s the only Reebok shoe he has worn. With its multi-colored hues and deceptively simple construction, the Nike Air Woven remains in my top five favorites. The colorways alone warrant a gold medal, and even recent retros haven’t been butchered. Since the shoe’s initial Japan-only, release with Hiroshi Fujiwara-designed colors in 2000, the sneaker skyrocketed to stardom. In my mind, the shoe epitomizes hardcore, early 2000s Japanese shoe collecting. When I think obscure, lo-fi, early HTML sneaker websites, rainbow HTM Air Wovens fly through my peripherals. At this point, every indie movie “aficionado” and Nike fan notes Bill Murray wears a HTM pair in “Lost in Translation”, which takes place in 2003 Tokyo. Perfect. (Hiroshi makes a brief cameo in the film and I’ve always assumed he was somehow connected to Murray’s pair.) Japan’s interest in laceless options still alters releases years later and terrorizes nonresidents like myself. Reebok’s Beatnik aligns more with a sandal than a sneaker, but the country’s fondness resulted in a Japan-only release for a slew of new colorways and a Nepenthes-specific release for the brands’ collaboration. Searches for pairs result in foreign web addresses with intimidating strings of unrecognizable text filling the page followed by a defeated sigh and a closed laptop. We’re still paying for nation’s good taste. The Beatnik definitely coincides with the Japanese outdoor style obsession – which continues to explode across the globe - and its bizarrely jagged, shark tooth outsole still excites fans. I imagine a wider release will ensue, but until that destined time vintage Japanese magazine photos with massive text overlays and oddly cheerful designs fuel my desire. As Suicoke consistently insults themselves with absurd collaborations - Palm Angels? Really? - and my older ACG sandals face inevitable deterioration, I gladly welcome a suede hiking sandal with a center-seam construction hijacked from a burlap feed sack. The Japanese have impeccable sartorial prowess and although affected somewhat by outside sources, retain an aspirational level of individualism. “They’re popular in Japan,” still causes people to envision fashion-forward, slightly avant-garde items that still retain high desirability. Laces, a fundamental component of shoe design in the western world, were never deemed essential in Japan, and the country’s interest in models continues past the time of feudalism and samurai.
0 Comments
When tallying the general population for the most fashionable decade ever, the 1970s finishes near the top for most popular answer. Discos, afros, fringe jackets, headbands, bell-bottoms and everyone’s favorite style icons, Hippies, have some traces and origins in the time frame. Even if people don’t actually love all of this, they love talking about it. I definitely respect the seemingly endless cascade of noteworthy items and buzzwords and tip my hat to men in polyester suits, but my admiration for the decade stems from shirtless dudes rocketing out of swimming pools on small wooden boards. Although skateboarders now seem to be the poster boys for “cool, hip, young, rebellious fashion icons”, things got seriously lost in translation stylistically over 40 years. Board shapes and in-vogue tricks change - totally understandable. But, Nike SBs, baggy Dickies and Supreme shirts just don’t give off the same feeling. (Just to be clear, I would much rather be wearing these items when jumping down staircases.) When I was 14 I was completely enthralled/borderline obsessed with the ethereal Z-Boys and all the eventual Dogtown affiliates. Being Lebron or Kobe seemed great, but switching places with Jay Adams or Tony Alva was infinitely more appealing. Essentially inventing a globally-accepted sport and the burgeoning industry/culture that accompanied it with 1970s California serving as the backdrop sounds more like a 2005 movie plot (Obviously, Lords of Dogtown was a childhood favorite.) than a historical event. Regardless, it was something I wished I was a part of. They could surf, skate, had super long hair AND a problem with authority figures - I saw absolutely no downside. Besides the setting and notoriously innovative skills, the decade’s list of legendary skaters fostered an enviable style that lives on through photographs, films, movie remakes, and the occasional Halloween costume. The 70s notorious fashion choices are well documented and admired, but Vans, tube socks and shorts - scared of any skin remotely near the knee - are directly linked to the era’s skateboarding stars. In this case, I assume form followed function, and the outfit is a result of the decade’s logical choices and available items. Vans are an unapologetically California-based label with a waffle sole appropriate for skateboards. In that same vein, it’s the West Coast, why would you wear anything besides shorts (Corduroy was an extremely popular fabric at the time, and these photos prove even shorts fell victim.) and a t-shirt? If it’s hot, lose the shirt and look even slicker. I’m sure there are some stylistic roots in surf culture crossing over, but wetsuits will never look cool, and they can’t be worn in the streets. I also definitely consider disco a 70s sport, but platform heels and polyester suits don’t translate into proper athletic attire. As skating grew up and money poured in, the inevitable flood of sponsors and companies arrived. Bare chests quickly got replaced with Logan, G&S and eventually Alva logos. (None quite as cool as the original navy Zephyr Competition Team shirts.) I’m sure it’s considered a sad moment by many, but I’m a fiend for some well-branded commercialization, and none of the vintage team merch disappoints. |
AuthorMax Theriot Archives
November 2019
Categories |