The best style on earth doesn’t technically reside on land. The massive blue abyss spanning the globe demands its visitors dress in an extremely specific manner tethered to the liquid environment. A 700 fill down jacket, wide wale corduroys, and Jordan 11s would prove a massive disadvantage for anyone facing the high seas. Naturally, the strict dress code created adventurers who unintentionally exemplified sartorial prowess. There’s definitely different categories of sea explorers, ranging from Land Rover-driving yacht club members to thousands of Navy members scrambling aboard an obscenely large vessel, regardless water spawns innate style from necessity and tradition. Ocean voyages always disseminate a feeling related to the elusive sense of luxury and adventure that never transfers to reality. Jacques Cousteau and sea exploration remain a synonymous pairing 22 years after his death. His adventures, mechanical creations, films, and conservation efforts continue to cement him as a legendary figure. Similar to Abraham Lincoln, Cousteau personifies a certain hat style, and the red knit beanie is inseparable from his crew and their adventures aboard Calypso. Wes Anderson’s “The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou” definitely brought his signature hat and accompanying blue ensemble into the spotlight again, but the look shouldn’t be confined to the 2004 film. (Props to Adidas for actually manufacturing the Team Zissou shoe.) Cousteau and his marine counterparts’ pristine style blends heritage and functionality with personality. The red hat stems from British Navy divers, but Cousteau’s popularity introduced the item to a much broader audience, largely unaware of its deep-sea origins. Although the cap is clearly the signature piece, his blue uniform remains magnificent. I don’t know the exact color to describe his chambray shirt and turtleneck, but it’s perfect. A vessel filled with divers, operators, captains and researchers may not seem like the prototypical space to explore personal style preferences, but I doubt his wardrobe carried notable importance for him. A deep-sea adventurer sprinting across the deck in coordinated ensemble seems designed for a Wes Anderson story. Cousteau’s technical savvy extends beyond oceanic research and his contributions to device like the Aqua-Lung, which transformed diving from a military and commercial endeavor to one enjoyed for personal use. His interest in highly functional mechanics extends to personal accessories. The red hat is no technological marvel, but upon meaningful inspection countless photographs capture the wonderful timepieces through his career. His Rolex Submariner and the DOXA SUB 300 were common choices. In this context, tool is much more appropriate than describing these items as jewelry. Cousteau and his Rolex may appear on a million mood boards, but seeing such a historic item used for its intended function in extreme environments reiterates Cousteau’s unknowing coolness-he’s like an elderly, ocean-obsessed James Dean. The watch stayed on his wrist as he floated through coral reefs documenting a world people never saw in clear definition. That’s far more interesting than a Sky-Dweller dangling off someone’s wrist at a Vegas pool party. However, other members aboard Calypso retained immense personal style at sea. Albert Falco, Cousteau’s chief diver, hailed from France and spent his career exploring aquatic ecosystems. Besides their shared interest in the underwater world, Falco also adopted signature pieces. Falco typically opted for a Breton shirt and navy smock, both inherently French and riddled with tradition. A French Navy decree from 1858 stated the striped shirt as an official uniform requirement for sailors, and its been reinterpreted by a plethora of designers including Coco Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier. Another sailing maverick with legendary outfits is Bernard Moitessier. Moitessier was a French national whose wardrobe-or lack of-echoes his sailing style and attitude. He’s often shown shirtless with no footwear, and the only coverage coming from a pair of faded red shorts. Although his lack of clothing may seem questionable, the sparse choice is rooted in function and performance. Vibrant shorts and no top make logical sense when sailing through the tropics. Why would anyone choose to be hunkered down by useless zippers and buttons during a battle with a sudden wind shift? Moitessier’s personality and outlooks seem obvious when judging his bare-chested appearance-only the necessities. The man potentially earned the fastest circumnavigation during the 1968 Sunday Times Golden Globe Race but refused to end the event at the appropriate location to reject the ongoing commercialization of performance sailing. Moitessier inevitably turned down endorsement deals and worldwide acclaim. The man in the tiny shorts made his point clear, he just wanted to sail. Although far away from the Parisian Haute Couture runways, women found a way to showcase interesting ensembles while using a boat deck as a catwalk. Naomi James was a phenomenal sailor and accomplished astonishing feats during the 1970s, but retired from serious sailing endeavors after her husband died. She wrote several books detailing her experiences and historic career. Her 1979 book, “At One with the Sea,” exemplifies her unbeknownst sartorial expertise. The 29-year-old New Zealander strikes a statuesque pose in yellow bib overalls while peering off into the water. Opting for more technically advanced options than Moitessier, James displayed style sided by textile innovations. (But, the Lady Kritter sweater is just too good.) Despite James' accomplishment and excellent book cover, the best sailing gear in history belongs to Krystyna Chojnowska-Liskiewicz. The polish athlete was the first women in history to circumnavigate the globe by herself. Her red Henry Lloyd suit proudly displayed The White Eagle, Poland’s national coat of arms and a matching hat. Mazurek, the 32-foot long sloop she traveled on, proudly decorates the garment along with slant pockets across the chest and legs. The outfit outshines any sports jersey, military uniform or spacesuit. Jordan's jersey doesn't come close. Semi-aquatic fashion responds to nothing but function and any accompanying technicalities derive from necessity. Moitessier didn’t need any garment besides his shorts for the majority of his voyages, so that’s all he wore. Prada and Louis Vuitton’s involvement in the America’s Cup resulted in amazing pieces in the early to mid-2000s, but some of the inherent coolness evaporates when unnecessary luxury branding appears. It’s cool to see the logos in such a foreign arena, and Prada utilized textile improvements in their renditions, but it still seems invasive. The natural world couldn’t evade high-profile branding efforts.
The ‘70s spawned legendary style choices, and the revered fashion sense seeped into the oceans. Although no sailors wore platform heels and fringe jackets while racing across the Pacific, their wardrobe decisions blended personal taste and function during a very interesting era. A red Henri Lloyd suit, tiny shorts, and yellow bib overalls wouldn’t logically transfer to any landlocked areas-the coolest outfits on Earth never make it to land.
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What does it mean to be a “nerd” in 2019? The historically antagonized social class and accompanying moniker underwent dynamic changes over time as the line blurs. Everyone, regardless of race, gender or income interacts with things once considered geeky or uncool to the socially conscious majority. Obsessions with technology, video games and various other entities deemed worthy of social exile at some point are commonplace. Society considers computer programmers as geniuses, and coders gain immense respect for rendering the digital backend people never see. As this marginalized group claws its way to social grace, the negative stigma associated with certain segments of nerd culture dissipated. Besides the tech-savvy abilities and video game skills, their wardrobes have been raided and assimilated into the fashion world through Vogue and other publications. I think its necessary to distinguish what in my mind is true nerd merch due to the term’s looseness. I’m not referencing any cyber-chic Prada ensembles or purposely wearing notorious fashion faux pas like socks and sandals. The intentionally geeky attempts usually come off as exceedingly corny. I’m talking about my guys in the comic shops playing Warhammer wearing some t-shirt they received as a preorder bonus for a PS-2 exclusive. However, these garments are slowly moving from LAN parties to the fashion limelight. Finally, people are starting to get sick of the vintage band and rap shirt phase, and shirts referencing video games or comic books seem like a viable new option. Vintage comic book, sci-fi, and video game pieces appear at an incessant rate on my timeline, but I love every single one. The absurdly colorful subject matter depicts scenes far more peculiar than the super faded Tupac shirt I’ve seen over 10,000 times. I never jumped into the vintage band shirt phase because it seemed so cutesy and overplayed. T-shirts shouldn’t require a checklist for ownership, but I definitely align more with those promoting other things. Magic: The Gathering, HeroClix, and fantasy RPGs dominated my time as a middle school student so I feel validated rocking a shirt with some disfigured, scythe-wielding parasite. The subject matter portrayed is no longer reserved for the lanky, pale, shy caricature playing World of Warcraft in a musty basement. An absurd amount of people play video games, which undoubtedly lessens the negative social connotation associated with related clothing. Baker Mayfield tweeted about Halo 3. Ninja streams games with global celebrities like Drake and Travis Scott while millions watch - Fortnite eradicated any argument suggesting video games aren’t loved by the masses. In regards to video games, the collaboration between Japanese watchmaker Seiko and the Final Fantasy franchise resulted in my favorite crossover to date. (Louis Vuitton x Final Fantasy is equally absurd.) The duo initially crafted a special edition Air Pro for Final Fantasy VIII’s 1999 release. Seiko’s Air Pro is an insane timepiece by itself with an inflatable band similar to Reebok’s pump technology and Gameboy-like colors, but the addition of Squall’s armor detailing creates an unbelievably precious late 90s tech gem. “Final Fantasy: The Spirits Within” hit theatres in 2001, leading to the partnership’s second project. Seiko created a piece modeled after the main character’s watch, crafting a real world version of the futuristic, bizarre, vertical device. It almost looks like a mix between a FitBit and a kid’s meal toy, but it truly is an insanely creative collaboration stemming from two Japanese companies with mastery in the respective fields. It wouldn’t be fair to continue without mentioning another Japanese behemoth, Bape. Avoiding a deep dive into the brand’s history, the iconic imprint referenced sci-fi films like Planet of the Apes, obviously, and Star Wars since its inception. Nigo’s obsession with nerdy classics led to extremely famous creations. But, the Bape x Marvel partnership reigns supreme. The recent superhero movie explosion and the insane popularity surrounding films like “Deadpool” and “The Avengers” helped destigmatize the notion these fictional characters only entertain children and comic book collectors. Before this recent boom and subsequent Marvel collaborations following Nigo’s 2013 departure from Bape, the brand worked with Marvel on an extremely colorful Bapesta group. The shoes are bright, childish, unapologetic and absolutely hideous in a likeable way. Bapestas tend to resemble candy painted Monte Carlos or a Mondrian painting due to the distinct patent leather color blocking, but I enjoy these renditions. No limit exited to restrain this project as the sneakers attached to a corresponding comic book that doubled as packaging. Thor, Iron Man, Cyclops, The Hulk, and several others lent their color schemes and imagery, creating a plethora of wearable Jolly Ranchers. Superheroes, villains, and their associate corporate entities exist inside a weird space. Everyone knows about them, but being too knowledgeable is a universal sign of someone’s obsession with fictional beings and a comic stash tucked away in a parent’s garage. You can easily identify the fantastical creations, but openly endorsing the crime-fighting celebrities has been the basis for potential ridicule. Comic book nerds are a historically acknowledged stereotype like band geeks and jocks. But, superhero imagery on t-shirts has been popular for years across various fashion levels. A guy in a Superman shirt in the grocery store remains a common sight, and the horrendous, pre-distressed, retro-inspired comic graphics stocked at retailers like Wal-Mart are permanently etched into my brain. Despite the overwhelmingly weak attempts, good executions exist. “The world’s greatest collaboration” tagline still greets visitors to the April 2011 Stussy x Marvel information page. Although some may consider it a hyperbole, it’s another personal favorite, combining classic Stussy designs with Marvel icons. A cooperative effort pairing two gigantic companies from different areas to create dual branded products makes perfect sense and a notable move by both corporations. The shirts released in two collections, Stussy x Marvel Series 1 (The Ultimate Teamup) and Series 2 (Special Edition Artists Series). Series 1 combines characters like Doctor Doom and The Silver Surfer with Sean Stussy’s classic signature and the circular logo with interlinked S’s. The artist series is undoubtedly better, featuring custom character interpretations by Mister Cartoon, Gary Panter, David Shrigley and several other renowned artists. Bill Plympton’s distinct take on Mystique, the blue-skinned shape-shifter from X-Men, remains the collection’s crown jewel. His rendering’s exaggerated head and body remind me of a theme park caricature – in a positive and unexpected way. The colossal mash-up could have easily resulted in a bland corporate blunder, but it produced fairly interesting takes, showcasing semi-niche figures in a fashionable way alongside streetwear beacons. In recent years, Julien Consuerga’s Stray Rats plays off nerdy, lo-fi, niche content perfectly. The brand doesn’t attempt to hide this-the brains behind it are clearly extremely knowledgeable and appreciative of every reference utilized. Consuerga’s Instagram contains countless images of potential inspiration, including an enviable assortment of collectibles spanning different eras and cultures. The Cloud Strife poster, Donkey Kong plush toys, and Eliza Thornberry figurine exemplify the mastermind’s taste. Stray Rats’ latest endeavors include a New Balance collaboration featuring The Joker’s infamous purple and green color coordination and a series of custom, horror-themed Barbie dolls. (Also, much respect to New Balance for the Neon Genesis Evangelion-a mech-inspired Fresh Foam Cruz is too perfect.) I’m sure Stray Rats will remain the last brand creating unique items with references so deeply rooted in niche cultural hideouts that I will spend hours scouring the internet for more information without succeeding. One of the greatest indicators of perceived cultural normality is movie taste. Are you a 35 year old watching “American Sniper,” “Ponyo,” or “Enter the Dragon?” The answer casually hints at some character traits. Although the perception may vary between judges, some of the most defining cultural moments in nerd history appeared in film form. Attempting to find a person who isn’t vaguely familiar with “Star Wars,” “Lord of the Rings,” “Ghost Busters,” or “Alien” remains a difficult task. As these franchise age and nostalgia enters overdrive, related promotional merchandise pieces continue to rise in price and popularity. Similar to the band shirt counterpart, originals are increasingly hard to acquire for a respectable price. But, I feel $550 for a 1982 “Blade Runner” shirt with Schlitz branding is more justifiable than spending a comparable amount on a Nirvana piece. I can almost guarantee you will not see a replica in Urban Outfitters or Pac Sun in the near future. Raf Simons’ 2018 S/S show referenced the sci-fi cornerstone, but a branded shirt may be easier for people to digest than knee-high rubber boots. Regardless, promotional merch for geek classics are eons beyond modern day renditions, and a "Guardians of the Galaxy" shirt falls flat in comparison to a 3-D alien exploding through someone's chest cavity-such an absurdly perfect design. Nerds gave the world technological innovations, entertainment franchises and a plethora of other beneficial byproducts related to their enviable intelligence. So, it’s only right we raid their closets also. As more gear boasting supervillains and fantasy heroes floods the scene, the act of wearing historically ridiculed imagery becomes substantially less daring. I can’t recall anybody getting stuffed inside a locker for wearing a “Resident Evil” shirt, but the assimilation makes perfect sense. Nerd merch is the ultimate hyper-niche category filled with obscure graphics and references that provide the perfect “in the know” appearance people crave. Currently, if I spot someone in a “World of Warcraft: The Burning Crusade” shirt, I’m assuming the wearer acquired it naturally without the aid of internet style guides,and the owner is a legitimate fan with an immense knowledge of Azeroth. But, the inclusion of baggy, purposely distressed Dickies and Balenciaga sneakers would force me to reinterpret the outfit in a different context. It’s lame to act extremely protective over graphic t-shirts and behave like a moral gatekeeper, but it seems wrong for a dude in a $10,000 outfit posing in one of those “sick” street style photos to rock a “Dungeons and Dragons” shirt. I feel like some dues should be paid. You need to roll a 20-sided die and slay a dragon with a fire bolt to wear the shirt without guilt.
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AuthorMax Theriot Archives
November 2019
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